Kick ass: Moche art at the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera in Lima.

Captured warriors are sacrificed on a Moche vessel, crafted at some point during the civilization’s apogee from 1 to 800 A.D. (Photo C-M.)

At this point, I feel confident in letting everyone know that if you come to Peru and don’t make a significant pit stop of at least three days in Lima, you are seriously hurting. Among the incredible sights: the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera, which has a spectacular collection of ceramics from various pre-Columbian Andean civilizations, most significantly the Moche, a culture renowned for their incredible portrait vessels. Think: Roman sculpture of the Americas.

The best part (in addition to the lovely on-site restaurant that serves a highly recommended ceviche) is the separate room that contains a trove of Moche erotic pottery — as in, lots of sculptures of people humping. My tour through the erotic gallery was heightened by a fellow traveler from Italy who spent the entire visit alternately exclaiming ‘Mama mia!’ or laughing nervously.

The museum is open seven days a week from 9:00 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Also: You can follow my Peruvian adventures on Twitter. Or check in with my buddy @hchuaeoan, who is Tweeting away about everything he puts in his mouth. I won’t say what.

Click on images to supersize.

Monkey’s mating, from the Virú culture, 1200 to 1 BC.

Moche portrait vessel.

Nazca era figures getting jiggy with it. 1 to 800 A.D.

God with owl headdress; Moche.

Dead man spanks the monkey.

Rear-entry, Chimú-Inca style; 1100-1532.

Moche portrait vessel.

In the museum’s store room: this cute little crab dude. Perfect for show and tell.

The museum’s store room. Absolutely frackin’ amazing.

Some days are like that. Moche ceramic, from 1 to 800 A.D.

And this is what happens when you have all that unprotected sex: you get nasty growths on your privates; Moche.

Schlongarrific vessels from the Nazca, Virú and Moche cultures.

Do not mess with this dude: Moche feline deity.

I’m thinking Night at the Museum: Part III. Moche vessel of a dead man with gigantor pipi.

And this has got to be one of my favorites: a half-man/half-feline vessel produced by the Cupisnique culture sometime between 1250 BC and 1 A.D. Sublime!


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  2. blanco

    awesome! love the Chimu stuff. I want to go to Chan Chan and see whats going on up there. good photographs!