Tag Archive for 'moche'

Lima, Day 20: Peruvian dogs, three ways.


Peruvian dogs, a.k.a. perros calatos (”naked dogs”), Chancay edition. At the Museo Andrés del Castillo. (Photos by C-M.)


Moche version, at the Museo de la Nación.


The real deal, rocking a sweatshirt, near the ruins at Pachacamac. Sublime.

Kick ass: Moche art at the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera in Lima.


Captured warriors are sacrificed on a Moche vessel, crafted at some point during the civilization’s apogee from 1 to 800 A.D. (Photo C-M.)

At this point, I feel confident in letting everyone know that if you come to Peru and don’t make a significant pit stop of at least three days in Lima, you are seriously hurting. Among the incredible sights: the Museo Rafael Larco Herrera, which has a spectacular collection of ceramics from various pre-Columbian Andean civilizations, most significantly the Moche, a culture renowned for their incredible portrait vessels. Think: Roman sculpture of the Americas.

The best part (in addition to the lovely on-site restaurant that serves a highly recommended ceviche) is the separate room that contains a trove of Moche erotic pottery — as in, lots of sculptures of people humping. My tour through the erotic gallery was heightened by a fellow traveler from Italy who spent the entire visit alternately exclaiming ‘Mama mia!’ or laughing nervously.

The museum is open seven days a week from 9:00 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Also: You can follow my Peruvian adventures on Twitter. Or check in with my buddy @hchuaeoan, who is Tweeting away about everything he puts in his mouth. I won’t say what.

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